Terra Pocket Hoodie Free Pattern: Seamless Yoke Knit with Mustard Double-Knit Pocket

Terra Pocket Hoodie: A Seamless Yoke Knit with a Mustard Double-Knit Pocket

Introduction

Welcome to the Terra Pocket Hoodie, a warm, wearable hug of a garment in rich terracotta with cheerful mustard accents. This pattern is perfect for a confident beginner who has already knit a scarf or two and is ready to try their first sweater — the seamless yoke construction means almost no seaming, and every single step is spelled out below. The finished hoodie is a relaxed, slightly oversized pullover with a roomy hood, cozy ribbed cuffs and hem, and a bold mustard double-knit chest pocket that adds texture and a pop of color. The aran-weight wool blend makes a springy, squishy fabric that feels soft against the skin and holds its shape beautifully after blocking. If you have never picked up a circular needle before, don't worry — we will define every term, explain every technique, and walk you through it row by row.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Aran weight wool blend (approximately 20% wool, 80% acrylic; 100 g / 180 m per skein).
  • Main Color (MC) terracotta: approximately 900 (1000, 1100, 1200, 1300) m — about 5 (6, 7, 7, 8) skeins.
  • Contrast Color (CC) mustard: approximately 150 (160, 170, 180, 190) m — about 1 (1, 1, 1, 2) skeins.
• Needles: 4.5 mm (US 7) circular needles with 80 cm cable and 40 cm cable; 4.5 mm (US 7) double-pointed needles (DPNs) for small circumferences such as sleeve cuffs; 4.0 mm (US 6) circular needle for all ribbing.
• Notions: Stitch markers (at least 4, preferably in a contrasting color for raglan lines), stitch holders or waste yarn, a tapestry needle (blunt-tipped needle for weaving in ends), and scissors.
• Finished dimensions: To fit chest 86 (96, 106, 116, 126) cm. Finished chest circumference 96 (106, 116, 126, 136) cm with 10 cm of positive ease (the garment is 10 cm bigger than your body). Length from hem to shoulder 62 (64, 66, 68, 70) cm. Sleeve length from underarm 45 (46, 47, 48, 49) cm. Pocket approximately 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) cm wide and 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) cm tall.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• k — knit stitch. Insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from left to right, wrap the yarn around, and pull a loop through.
• p — purl stitch. Insert the right needle into the front of the stitch from right to left, wrap the yarn around the front, and pull a loop through.
• sts — stitches. The individual loops on your needle.
• RS — right side. The outside, public face of your knitting.
• WS — wrong side. The inside face of your knitting.
• k2tog — knit two stitches together. Insert the needle into the next two stitches at once and knit them as one. This leans the decrease to the right.
• ssk — slip, slip, knit. Slip one stitch knitwise to the right needle, slip a second stitch knitwise, then insert the left needle into the fronts of both slipped stitches and knit them together. This leans the decrease to the left.
• M1L — make one left. Lift the horizontal bar between the last stitch you knit and the next stitch with your left needle from front to back, then knit into the back of that loop. It adds one stitch and leans left.
• M1R — make one right. Lift the horizontal bar between stitches with your left needle from back to front, then knit into the front of that loop. It adds one stitch and leans right.
• sl1 wyif — slip one stitch with yarn in front. Move the yarn to the front of your work, slip the next stitch from the left needle to the right needle without knitting it, keeping the yarn in front.
• Double knitting — a technique that creates a two-sided, thicker fabric by knitting one stitch and slipping the next with the yarn in front, alternating on each row. The slipped stitches create a second layer on the back.
• Ribbing (2x2) — a stretchy fabric made by alternating two knit stitches and two purl stitches.
• Stockinette stitch — when working in the round, knit every stitch on every round. The result is smooth on the outside and bumpy on the inside.
• Round — one complete circuit around a circular or double-pointed needle when working in the round.
• Row — one pass back and forth when working flat.
• Place on waste yarn / stitch holder — slide live stitches onto a length of scrap yarn or a holder so they are safely held until you need them.
• Pick up and knit — insert your needle into an edge stitch or gap, wrap the yarn, and pull up a new loop to create stitches along an edge.
• Bind off — the final edge that secures your stitches so they do not unravel. Knit two stitches, then lift the first over the second and off the needle; repeat across.
• Mattress stitch — a seaming technique that joins two edges invisibly by working under the horizontal bars between stitches.

Gauge

18 stitches and 24 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) in stockinette stitch on 4.5 mm needles, after blocking.

Gauge matters because it is the bridge between your hands and the finished size. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, your hoodie will come out too large; if they are smaller, it will be too tight. Before you begin, knit a gauge swatch: cast on about 30 stitches with your 4.5 mm needle and MC yarn, work in stockinette (knit one row, purl one row) for about 15 cm, then bind off. Wet-block the swatch (gently wash it, press it flat, and let it dry completely), then lay a ruler across the middle and count how many stitches fit in 10 cm and how many rows fit in 10 cm. If you have more stitches than 18, go up a needle size; if you have fewer, go down a needle size. Always measure after blocking, because the fabric relaxes and changes size.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use stitch markers to track your raglan lines. The four markers in the yoke tell you exactly where to decrease. If you lose your place, count back from the nearest marker.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Tension is the number one beginner issue. Let the yarn flow smoothly; tight stitches make the fabric stiff and make it hard to insert your needle.
• Read the whole pattern once before casting on. Understanding the order — body, sleeves, yoke, hood, pocket — will make every step feel less surprising.
• Try on as you go. Slip your live stitches onto waste yarn and try the body on to check the fit before you join the sleeves.
• Count your stitches at the end of every decrease round. The stitch counts in parentheses are your safety net; if they match, you are on track.
• Keep your double-knit pocket swatch separate. Double knitting pulls in slightly, so knit a small practice square first to get the rhythm of knit-one, slip-one.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Body (worked bottom-up in the round)

Set-up: With the 4.0 mm circular needle and CC mustard, cast on 172 (192, 208, 228, 244) sts. Join in the round (being careful not to twist the cast-on edge), and place a marker for the beginning of the round.

Ribbing: Work in 2x2 rib (k2, p2) for 6 cm. (172 [192, 208, 228, 244] sts)

Change to the 4.5 mm circular needle and MC terracotta.

Rounds 1–end: Knit every round (stockinette) until the body measures 38 (39, 40, 41, 42) cm from the cast-on edge. (172 [192, 208, 228, 244] sts)

Divide for armholes: Next round: k86 (96, 104, 114, 122) and place these front stitches on waste yarn; k86 (96, 104, 114, 122) for the back and place these back stitches on waste yarn. Set the body aside.

Sleeves (make 2, worked bottom-up in the round)

Set-up: With the 4.0 mm DPNs and CC mustard, cast on 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts. Join in the round.

Ribbing: Work 2x2 rib for 6 cm. (44 [48, 52, 56, 60] sts)

Change to the 4.5 mm DPNs and MC terracotta.

Rounds 1–4: Knit. (44 [48, 52, 56, 60] sts)

Increase round: k1, M1L, knit to the last stitch, M1R, k1. (46 [50, 54, 58, 62] sts)

Repeat the increase round every 8th (8th, 7th, 7th, 6th) round 10 (11, 12, 13, 14) times total. (64 [70, 76, 82, 88] sts)

Work even (knit every round) until the sleeve measures 45 (46, 47, 48, 49) cm from the cast-on edge. Place the sleeve stitches on waste yarn. Make the second sleeve identically.

Yoke (join body and sleeves)

Set-up round: With the 4.5 mm circular needle and MC terracotta, knit across 86 (96, 104, 114, 122) back sts, place a marker (raglan), knit across 64 (70, 76, 82, 88) first-sleeve sts, place a marker, knit across 86 (96, 104, 114, 122) front sts, place a marker, knit across 64 (70, 76, 82, 88) second-sleeve sts, place a marker. (300 [332, 360, 392, 420] sts)

Rounds 1–2: Knit even. (300 [332, 360, 392, 420] sts)

Decrease round: *Knit to 2 sts before the marker, k2tog, slip the marker, ssk; repeat from * 3 more times. (8 sts decreased)

Repeat the decrease round every other round 18 (20, 22, 24, 26) times total. (156 [172, 184, 200, 212] sts)

Next round: Knit even. (156 [172, 184, 200, 212] sts)

Shape neck: Next round: knit to the first marker, remove the marker, place 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) front neck sts on waste yarn, cast on 2 sts, and continue to the end of the round. Work back and forth in rows on the remaining stitches for 4 rows, decreasing 1 st at each neck edge every row. (4 sts decreased) Place all stitches on waste yarn.

Hood

Set-up: With the 4.5 mm circular needle and MC terracotta, pick up and knit 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts from the front neck waste yarn, pick up 2 sts from the cast-on edge, pick up and knit 30 (32, 34, 36, 38) sts from the back neck waste yarn, and pick up 2 sts from the side edge. (64 [68, 72, 76, 80] sts) Join in the round.

Rounds 1–2: Knit. (64 [68, 72, 76, 80] sts)

Increase round: *K4, M1L; repeat from * to end. (80 [85, 90, 95, 100] sts)

Work even (knit every round) until the hood measures 30 (31, 32, 33, 34) cm from the pick-up edge. (80 [85, 90, 95, 100] sts)

Shape top:

Round 1: *K2tog, k6 (7, 8, 9, 10); repeat from * to end. (70 [76, 81, 86, 91] sts)

Round 2: Knit. (70 [76, 81, 86, 91] sts)

Round 3: *K2tog, k5 (6, 7, 8, 9); repeat from * to end. (60 [66, 72, 77, 82] sts)

Round 4: Knit. (60 [66, 72, 77, 82] sts)

Round 5: *K2tog, k4 (5, 6, 7, 8); repeat from * to end. (50 [56, 63, 68, 73] sts)

Round 6: Knit. (50 [56, 63, 68, 73] sts)

Round 7: *K2tog, k3 (4, 5, 6, 7); repeat from * to end. (40 [46, 54, 59, 64] sts)

Round 8: Knit. (40 [46, 54, 59, 64] sts)

Round 9: *K2tog, k2 (3, 4, 5, 6); repeat from * to end. (30 [36, 45, 50, 55] sts)

Round 10: Knit. (30 [36, 45, 50, 55] sts)

Round 11: *K2tog, k1 (2, 3, 4, 5); repeat from * to end. (20 [26, 36, 41, 46] sts)

Round 12: Knit. (20 [26, 36, 41, 46] sts)

Round 13: *K2tog, k0 (1, 2, 3, 4); repeat from * to end. (10 [16, 27, 32, 37] sts)

Round 14: Knit. (10 [16, 27, 32, 37] sts)

Round 15: K2tog around. (5 [8, 14, 16, 19] sts)

Finish: Cut the yarn, leaving a 15 cm tail. Thread the tail onto a tapestry needle, pass it through the remaining stitches, pull tight, and fasten off on the inside.

Hood Edge

Set-up: With the 4.0 mm circular needle and CC mustard, pick up and knit 80 (84, 88, 92, 96) sts evenly around the hood opening. Join in the round.

Ribbing: Work 2x2 rib for 4 cm. (80 [84, 88, 92, 96] sts)

Bind off in rib (knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches as you bind off).

Pocket (worked flat in double knitting)

Set-up: With the 4.5 mm needles and CC mustard, cast on 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) sts.

Row 1 (RS): *K1, sl1 wyif; repeat from * to end.

Row 2 (WS): *Sl1 wyif, p1; repeat from * to end.

Repeat Rows 1–2 until the pocket measures 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) cm. Bind off all sts. The pocket should measure approximately 24 (26, 28, 30, 32) cm wide and 14 (15, 16, 17, 18) cm tall.

Assembly and Finishing

Sew the pocket: Lay the hoodie flat with the front facing up. Position the pocket on the center front of the body, with its bottom edge 8 cm above the hem ribbing and centered horizontally. Pin the pocket in place along the sides and bottom, leaving the top edge open. Thread a tapestry needle with CC mustard and use mattress stitch: working from the right side, pass the needle under the horizontal bar between the first two stitches of the pocket edge, then under the corresponding bar on the body, and pull gently. Continue along one side, then the bottom, then the other side, keeping your stitches even and snug but not tight. Fasten off on the inside.

Weave in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and weave it through the bumpy wrong side of the fabric for about 5 cm, changing direction once so it cannot work loose. Trim the excess yarn close to the fabric.

Block: Fill a basin with cool water and a small amount of wool wash. Submerge the hoodie and let it soak for 15 minutes without agitating. Gently squeeze out the water (do not wring). Roll the hoodie in a towel to remove excess moisture, then lay it flat on a blocking mat. Pat it into the finished measurements — chest circumference 96 (106, 116, 126, 136) cm and length 62 (64, 66, 68, 70) cm — and pin the hood and pocket edges flat. Let it dry completely, which may take 24 to 48 hours. The fabric will relax slightly after blocking.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap the terracotta MC for a deep forest green or navy, and the mustard CC for cream or rust. Any aran-weight wool blend will work as long as you match the gauge.
• Adjust the size: To make the hoodie larger or smaller, add or subtract stitches in multiples of 4 (to keep the 2x2 ribbing even) and adjust the raglan decrease count accordingly. Always re-check your gauge first.
• Add stripes: Work a few CC stripes in the body or sleeves for extra color-blocking. Change colors at the beginning of a round and carry the unused yarn loosely up the inside.
• Make the pocket pop: Try a third color for the pocket, or work the pocket in a textured stitch such as seed stitch for a different look. Just keep the pocket width in proportion to the body.