Lichen Petal Bolero Free Pattern: Beginner Hexagon Crochet Shrug

Lichen Petal Bolero: A Beginner Hexagon Crochet Shrug

Introduction

If you have ever looked at a crocheted garment and thought, "I could never make that," this is the project that will change your mind. The Lichen Petal Bolero is made from just one single hexagon motif — a six-sided shape worked in the round from the center outward — so you never have to shape armholes, decrease for a neckline, or sew together dozens of tiny pieces. It is perfect for a complete beginner who has just learned double crochet and wants to make something they will actually wear. The finished bolero is a soft, cape-like shrug in a tonal moss and lichen green alpaca blend, with a fuzzy matte halo, six delicate petal-fan corners, and a neat single crochet border. It drapes gently over the shoulders, forms short sleeves over the upper arms, and leaves the front open so it slips on over anything. One motif, two seams, and you have a wearable piece you can be proud of.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (CYC category 4) alpaca blend yarn — approximately 500–550 yards (460–500 m) total. The sample uses a moss/lichen green tonal alpaca blend (about 70% alpaca, 30% wool), 200 yards per 100 g skein. You will need 3 skeins.
• Crochet hook: US H-8 / 5.0 mm (or the size needed to match gauge).
• Stitch markers: At least 6, to mark each of the six corners.
• Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped yarn needle for seaming and weaving in ends.
• Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting yarn.
• Measuring tape: For checking gauge and seam length.
• Blocking supplies (optional but recommended): Pins and a spray bottle of water, or a blocking mat.
• Finished size: One size fits most adult men (chest 38–46 inches / 97–117 cm). The finished shrug measures approximately 40 inches (102 cm) across the back point-to-point and 14 inches (36 cm) in sleeve depth.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is listed below with a plain-English explanation. Read through this list once before you begin — you do not need to memorize it.

• ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn over your hook and pull it through the loop already on your hook. This creates a small chain link.
• sl st – slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull that loop straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. It joins things together without adding height.
• sc – single crochet. Insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. A short, dense stitch.
• dc – double crochet. Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops. A taller stitch that creates the main fabric.
• ch-2 sp – chain-2 space. The little gap formed by two chain stitches in the previous round. You work your stitches into this gap rather than into a stitch.
• ch-1 sp – chain-1 space. The small gap formed by a single chain stitch.
• beg – beginning. Refers to the first stitch or chain of a round.
• rep – repeat. Do the instruction again as many times as stated.
• st(s) – stitch(es). One completed stitch or several.
• PC – Petal Cluster (special stitch). Work [dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc] all into the same ch-2 space. This makes a fan of three double crochets separated by chain-1 gaps — the "petal."
• magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn you can pull tight after working into it, so the center hole closes neatly. (If you prefer, chain 4 and join with a sl st to form a ring instead.)
• join with sl st – finish a round by making a slip stitch into the top of the first stitch or chain of that round, closing the circle.
• fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail through the last loop to secure it.
• whipstitch – a simple seaming stitch: pass the needle over the edge of both pieces and back through, working small even stitches along the join.
• mattress stitch – a seaming method that goes back and forth between the two edges to create a flat, nearly invisible join.

Gauge

Gauge: 14 dc x 8 rounds = 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm) in double crochet worked in the round. After Round 8, the hexagon motif should measure approximately 20 inches (51 cm) point-to-point.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rounds fit into a set measurement. If your stitches are too tight, the whole bolero will come out smaller than planned; if too loose, it will be too big. Because this garment is one large motif, a small difference in gauge adds up across the whole piece.

How to make a gauge swatch: Chain 30, then work double crochet rows until your swatch is about 5 inches tall. Lay it flat, place a ruler across the middle, and count how many double crochet stitches fit in 4 inches, then how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more than 14 stitches in 4 inches, your tension is tight — try a larger hook. If you have fewer, try a smaller hook. Always swatch before starting a garment.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use stitch markers at every corner. Place a marker in each of the six ch-2 corner spaces as you make them. This is the single best way to avoid losing your place in a hexagon.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. New crocheters often grip tightly, which makes stiff fabric and a too-small motif. Keep your loops relaxed and let the hook do the work.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The stitch count in parentheses tells you exactly how many you should have. If it is off, fix it before moving on — it is much easier now than five rounds later.
• Keep the center opening open. The middle of the hexagon is not closed up — it becomes the back neck opening. Do not pull the magic ring completely shut if it closes the whole center; leave the opening as the pattern describes.
• Work the increase rounds slowly. Each round adds one more double crochet along each of the six sides. Read the round fully before you begin so you know where the increases fall.
• Trust the process. A hexagon can look wobbly and strange before blocking. Light blocking at the end opens the petals and smooths the shape beautifully.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Construction overview: This bolero is made from one large hexagon motif worked in the round from the center outward. The center is left open — this becomes the back neck/upper back. Two opposite points are folded toward each other and seamed along their edges to form short sleeves. The remaining four points drape over the shoulders and down the front as the bolero fronts. The hexagon has six sides, each separated by a ch-2 corner space, and you increase at each of the six corners every round to keep it flat.

Hexagon Motif (make 1)

Set-up: Make a magic ring (adjustable ring).

Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), work 11 dc into the magic ring. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. Pull ring tail snug but leave the center opening as described. (12 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in same st. Ch 2. *2 dc in next st, ch 2; rep from * around, ending with ch 2. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (6 corner ch-2 sps, 12 dc)

Round 3: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in next st. Ch 2. *2 dc in next st, dc in next st, ch 2; rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (6 corners, 18 dc)

Round 4: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of next 2 sts. Ch 2. *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 2 sts, ch 2; rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (6 corners, 24 dc)

Round 5: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of next 3 sts. Ch 2. *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 3 sts, ch 2; rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (6 corners, 30 dc)

Round 6: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of next 4 sts. Ch 2. *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 4 sts, ch 2; rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (6 corners, 36 dc)

Round 7: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of next 5 sts. Ch 2. *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 5 sts, ch 2; rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (6 corners, 42 dc)

Round 8: Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each of next 6 sts. Ch 2. *2 dc in next st, dc in each of next 6 sts, ch 2; rep from * around. Join with sl st to top of beg ch-3. (6 corners, 48 dc)

Check your size: At this point the hexagon should measure approximately 20 inches (51 cm) point-to-point. If it is smaller, add another increase round: Round 9 (optional increase): Ch 3, dc in same st, dc in each st to next corner, ch 2, rep around, join. (6 corners, 54 dc) If it is larger, omit Round 8.

Round 9 (Petal Round): Ch 1, sc in same st. *Sc in each dc to next ch-2 sp, work PC in ch-2 sp; rep from * around. Join with sl st to first sc. (This round adds a decorative petal fan at each of the 6 corners.)

Round 10 (Final Edging): Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch-1 sp around, working 3 sc in each corner point. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off. Weave in ends. (Even single crochet border all the way around.)

Assembly and Finishing

Step 1 — Block the hexagon lightly. Mist the motif with water and pin it flat on a blocking mat or towel, gently opening each petal corner so the fans sit flat. Let it dry completely before seaming.

Step 2 — Identify your points. Lay the hexagon flat with the right side facing up. Choose two opposite points and label them A and B — these become the sleeve seams. The remaining four points (C, D, E, F) will drape as the front and shoulder edges.

Step 3 — Fold and pin. Fold point A toward point B so the two edges between them meet. The center opening of the hexagon now forms the back neck opening. Pin the two edges together from the outer point inward for approximately 7 inches (18 cm) — this creates the short sleeve seam. Repeat for the opposite side (point B toward point A).

Step 4 — Seam. Using a tapestry needle and a 24-inch length of the same yarn, whipstitch or mattress stitch the pinned edges together securely. Do not pull too tightly — the seam should lie flat. Repeat on the second side. Weave in ends.

Step 5 — Try it on. The center opening should sit at the upper back/nape, the seamed points should form short sleeves over the upper arms, and the four remaining points should drape softly over the shoulders and down the front. Adjust seam length if needed: a shorter seam gives a looser sleeve, a longer seam gives a snugger sleeve.

Step 6 — Optional neatening edge. Work a single round of sc evenly around the entire outer edge (front opening, hem, and sleeve openings) to neaten. Fasten off and weave in all ends.

Weaving in ends: Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and run it through the back of several stitches, changing direction once, then trim close to the fabric.

Care: Hand wash cold, gently squeeze (do not wring), lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Store folded.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Play with color. Use a self-striping or tonal yarn to let the hexagon rounds shift color naturally, or change to a contrasting color for Rounds 9–10 so the petal fans and border pop.
• Adjust the size. To make the bolero larger, add one or two more increase rounds before the Petal Round (each adds about 3 inches / 7.5 cm point-to-point). To make it smaller, stop after Round 7 instead of Round 8.
• Substitute yarn. Any worsted weight (CYC 4) yarn works — a wool or wool-blend gives crisp stitch definition, while a softer acrylic or cotton blend is easier to care for. Always re-check your gauge with a new yarn.
• Change the sleeve fit. Seam more or fewer inches along the folded edges to make the short sleeves snugger or looser, and try it on before weaving in your seaming ends so you can adjust easily.