Crochet Dog Toy Patterns

Electric Corn Cob Crochet Dog Toy Free Pattern

Knitting Charm: Elegant Handcrafted Knits & Crochet • October 27, 2026
Electric Corn Cob Crochet Dog Toy - Free Beginner Pattern

Electric Corn Cob Crochet Dog Toy: A Free Beginner Pattern

If you have never held a crochet hook before, this is the perfect first project to fall in love with. This Electric Corn Cob dog toy is a cheerful, folk-art little corn cob worked in bright neon yellow with two perky green husk triangles at the base, and it comes together with the simplest stitch in crochet: the single crochet. It is quick enough to finish in an evening, sturdy enough for gentle play, and full of handmade charm that you will be proud to show off. The finished toy is about 6 inches tall and 2 inches wide, softly stuffed, and covered in raised chain-loop "kernels" that give it a bumpy, tactile texture dogs love to nuzzle. Best of all, every single step is spelled out below, so you can learn as you go.

Materials Needed

  • Yarn: Worsted weight (medium, size 4) acrylic yarn — approximately 70 yards neon yellow and 15 yards neon green. Acrylic is recommended because it is durable and easy to wash.
  • Crochet hook: Size G/6 (4 mm).
  • Stitch marker: One removable marker (or a scrap of contrasting yarn) to track the start of each round.
  • Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped needle with a large eye for weaving in ends and sewing on the husks.
  • Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting yarn.
  • Stuffing: A small amount of polyester fiberfill to fill the cob.
  • Finished size: About 6 inches tall and 2 inches wide.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

  • ch — chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook, then pull the yarn through that loop. Each one you make is a "chain stitch."
  • sc — single crochet. Insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (you now have 2 loops on the hook), then pull the yarn through both loops at once. One loop remains.
  • sl st — slip stitch. Insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop, and pull it straight through the loop already on your hook. It makes a tiny, flat join.
  • sc2tog — single crochet 2 stitches together (a decrease). Insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop, insert your hook into the following stitch, pull up a loop, then pull the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook. This turns two stitches into one.
  • st(s) — stitch or stitches.
  • magic ring — an adjustable loop of yarn you crochet into, then pull closed so there is no hole in the center.
  • 2 sc in next st — an increase. Work two single crochets into the same stitch, which adds one stitch to your count.
  • work in continuous rounds — you spiral around and around without joining or turning, like a snail shell.
  • fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work and pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
  • weave in ends — thread a yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the fabric so it disappears.

Gauge

Gauge: 5 single crochet stitches = 1 inch, and 5 rounds = 1 inch.

Gauge simply means how big your stitches turn out. It matters because it keeps your finished toy the right size and keeps the stuffing safely inside tight stitches. To check it, crochet a small flat swatch of about 15 single crochets across and 15 rows, then lay a ruler on it and count how many stitches fit in 1 inch. If you get more than 5 stitches per inch, your stitches are tight — try a slightly larger hook. If you get fewer than 5, your stitches are loose — try a smaller hook. For a stuffed toy, slightly tighter is better than looser.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

  • Use your stitch marker. Place it in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go. In continuous rounds it is the only way to know where a round begins.
  • Do not pull your yarn too tight. Keep an even, relaxed tension. Tight stitches are hard to work into and can make the stuffing poke through.
  • Count your stitches at the end of every round. The numbers in parentheses tell you exactly how many you should have. If you are off, fix it now rather than later.
  • Stuff firmly but not rock-hard. Add stuffing a little at a time and shape the cob into a rounded cylinder as you fill it.
  • Keep your chain loops loose. When you make the kernels, do not tug them tight — loose loops stand up and look like real corn.
  • This is a toy for gentle play only. Always supervise your dog and remove the toy if it becomes damaged.

Step-by-Step Instructions

NOTE: Work in continuous rounds. Do not join or turn unless instructed. Move the stitch marker up each round. The chain-loop kernels are added after the cob body is complete.

Corn Cob Body (neon yellow)

Round 1: Make a magic ring, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. (6 sc)

Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Round 3: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st] around. (18 sc)

Round 4: [2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts] around. (24 sc)

Rounds 5–20: Sc in each st around. (24 sc)

Round 21: [Sc2tog, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts] around. (18 sc)

Round 22: [Sc2tog, 1 sc in next st] around. (12 sc)

Stuff the cob firmly with polyester fiberfill, shaping it into a rounded cylinder.

Round 23: Sc2tog around. (6 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail. Thread the tail through the remaining 6 sts and pull closed. Weave in the end.

Kernel Chain-Loop Texture (neon yellow)

The kernels are worked as surface chain loops over the outside of the cob.

Step 1: Join neon yellow with a sl st at the bottom edge of the cob.

Step 2: Ch 4, then sl st into the same st or the next st to anchor the loop. Make the loops close together so they stand up like corn kernels.

Step 3: Continue working ch-4 loops around the cob in slightly staggered rows, spacing them about 1/4 inch apart, until the body is covered from bottom to top. Do not cover the very top closing point.

Step 4: Fasten off and weave in the end. Gently fluff the loops outward with your fingers.

Husk Triangles (make 2, neon green)

Row 1: Ch 8. Sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (7 sc) Turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st across to the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (5 sc) Turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next st, sc2tog. (3 sc) Turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in last st. (2 sc) Turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, sc2tog. (1 sc)

Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch tail for sewing.

Assembly and Finishing

1. Position the husks. Place the two green husk triangles at the base of the corn cob, with the wide edges together and the points facing downward and slightly outward.

2. Sew the husks. Thread each yarn tail onto your tapestry needle and sew the husks securely to the bottom edge of the cob with small, firm stitches, going back and forth through the husk and the cob so they cannot pull loose.

3. Weave in all ends. Thread every remaining tail onto the tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the inside of the fabric for about an inch, then trim close to the work.

4. Block (optional). Lightly mist the toy with water and pat it into shape with your fingers, then let it air-dry completely. Do not soak a stuffed toy.

5. Safety check. Gently tug every chain loop and both husks to confirm they are firmly attached before giving the toy to a dog. Supervise play and remove the toy if it becomes damaged.

Pro Tips and Variations

  • Change the colors. Swap the neon yellow for classic butter yellow, or make a "candy corn" version with white, orange, and yellow stripes by changing yarn every few rounds.
  • Adjust the size. For a bigger toy, add more plain rounds between Rounds 5 and 20 (each extra round adds about 1/5 inch of height). For a smaller toy, work fewer plain rounds.
  • Substitute yarn. Any worsted weight acrylic works well. Cotton is also sturdy but less stretchy, so check your gauge again if you switch.
  • Add a squeaker. Tuck a small pet-safe squeaker inside the stuffing before you close the top for extra fun — just make sure it is fully enclosed.

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