Blush Chevron Coffin Door Mat Free Crochet Pattern

Blush Chevron Coffin Door Mat — Free Beginner Crochet Pattern

Introduction

This Blush Chevron Coffin Door Mat is the perfect first big project for someone who has never held a crochet hook before. It is worked flat, back and forth in simple rows of double crochet, so there is no shaping, no working in the round, and no complicated counting to worry about. The bold emerald and blush chevron stripes do all the visual work for you, and two tiny bat appliqués at the bottom corners give the whole mat a subtle coffin silhouette when you look at it from above. The finished rug is about 30 inches wide by 20 inches long, thick and squishy underfoot, with raised ripple ridges that feel wonderful on bare feet. Best of all, bulky yarn and a big hook mean it grows fast — you can finish it in a weekend of cozy evenings.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Bulky weight (category 5) wool yarn — approximately 380 yards emerald green and 300 yards blush pink. The sample uses a smooth, slightly fuzzy bulky single-ply wool. Wool is recommended because it blocks beautifully and holds the ripple shape.
• Hook: Size L-11 (8.0 mm) crochet hook, or whatever size you need to match the gauge below.
• Stitch markers: At least 4, to mark your first stitch, your last stitch, and the corners of the border.
• Tapestry needle (yarn needle): A large-eyed blunt needle for weaving in ends and sewing on the bats.
• Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting yarn.
• Measuring tape or ruler: For checking gauge and finished size.
• Blocking supplies: A spray bottle of water, rust-proof pins, and a towel or blocking mats.
• Finished size: Approximately 30 inches (76 cm) wide x 20 inches (51 cm) long, plus the small bat appliqués at the bottom corners.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every term below is explained as if you have never crocheted before. Read this list once before you start, and keep it open beside you.

• ch — chain: Make a slip knot on your hook, then wrap the yarn over the hook and pull it through the loop on your hook. That is one chain. Chains form your starting foundation.
• sc — single crochet: Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One loop remains. This is the shortest, tightest basic stitch.
• dc — double crochet: Yarn over first, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops. One loop remains. This is a taller stitch and is the main stitch of this rug.
• dc2tog — double crochet 2 together: A decrease that turns 2 stitches into 1. Yarn over, insert hook into the first stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain). Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remain). Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This creates the downward "valley" of the chevron.
• hdc — half double crochet: Yarn over, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops at once. Used only in the bat wings.
• st(s) — stitch(es): One completed stitch, or several.
• sk — skip: Do not work into the next stitch; move past it to the one after.
• rep — repeat: Do the same instruction again.
• RS — right side: The "good" front face of your work, the side that will show on the floor.
• sl st — slip stitch: Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull the loop straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. Used to join rounds.
• 2 dc in next st — increase: Work two complete double crochet stitches into the same single stitch. This creates the upward "peak" of the chevron.
• yarn over: Wrap the working yarn over your hook from back to front.
• fasten off: Cut the yarn a few inches from your work, then pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
• weave in ends: Thread a yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the back of the fabric to hide it.
• whipstitch: A simple over-and-over sewing stitch used to attach the bats to the rug.

Gauge

Gauge: 10 double crochet x 5 rows = 4 inches (10 cm) in the chevron pattern, measured across one full ripple repeat after light blocking.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit into 4 inches. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, your rug will come out wider and longer than 30 x 20 inches and you may run short on yarn. If they are smaller, the rug will be too small. Because this is a rug, a little variation is fine — but checking gauge saves you from surprises.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your L-11 hook and emerald yarn, chain 30. Work the chevron row (see the Special Stitch below) back and forth for 6 rows. Lay the swatch flat, pin it lightly, and measure across the middle. Count how many double crochet stitches fit in 4 inches and how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more stitches than 10, go up a hook size; if you have fewer, go down a hook size. Then begin the rug.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Count your stitches at the end of every row. Every chevron row should have exactly 126 stitches. If you are off, the ripple will drift sideways. Counting takes 30 seconds and saves hours.
• Use stitch markers. Place one in your very first stitch and one in your very last stitch of each row so you never lose them, and mark each corner when you reach the border.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Tension should be relaxed and even. Tight stitches make a stiff, cupping rug; loose, even stitches make a flat, drapey one.
• Remember the valleys are not lost stitches. The two dc2tog decreases at each valley are balanced by the 2-dc increase at each peak, so the stitch count stays constant at 126. Trust the math.
• Change colors at the end of a row. Work the last stitch of the row until 2 loops remain, drop the old color, and pull the new color through to finish the stitch. This gives a clean stripe edge.
• Keep your turning chain consistent. The ch 3 at the start of each row counts as your first double crochet. Do not also work a dc into the very first stitch beneath it.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Chevron Math and the Special Stitch (read first)

Each ripple repeat uses 14 stitches and creates one downward valley and one upward peak. This pattern uses 9 repeats = 126 stitches across, which gives roughly 30 inches wide at gauge. Rows are worked in pairs of colors (2 rows emerald, 2 rows blush) to build the stripe sequence.

Special Stitch — Chevron Row (worked over a multiple of 14 sts + 2): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, *dc in each of next 5 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in each of next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * across, ending with 1 dc in last st. The stitch count stays constant on every chevron row (126 sts).

Foundation

With emerald, ch 128.

Row 1 (RS): Dc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (126 dc)

Chevron Body

Row 2 (emerald): Ch 3, dc in next st, *dc in next 5 sts, dc2tog, dc2tog, dc in next 5 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * across, dc in last st. (126 sts)

Row 3 (emerald): Rep Row 2. (126 sts)

Change to blush.

Rows 4–5 (blush): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to emerald.

Rows 6–7 (emerald): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to blush.

Rows 8–9 (blush): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to emerald.

Rows 10–11 (emerald): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to blush.

Rows 12–13 (blush): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to emerald.

Rows 14–15 (emerald): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to blush.

Rows 16–17 (blush): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to emerald.

Rows 18–19 (emerald): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to blush.

Rows 20–21 (blush): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to emerald.

Rows 22–23 (emerald): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Change to blush.

Rows 24–25 (blush): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts)

Fasten off blush. Join emerald for the final rows.

Rows 26–27 (emerald): Rep Row 2 twice. (126 sts) Do not fasten off.

You now have 27 rows total (Row 1 foundation + Rows 2–27 chevron), which at gauge gives approximately 20 inches long.

Border

Round 1 (emerald, RS): Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire perimeter, working 1 sc in each st along the top and bottom edges and 1 sc in each row-end along the side edges, with 3 sc in each corner. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off and weave in all ends. Block lightly to settle the ripple.

Corner Bat Appliqués (make 2, one for each bottom corner)

With blush, ch 4; join with sl st to form a ring.

Round 1: Ch 1, work 8 sc into the ring. Join with sl st to first sc. (8 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in same st, *ch 3, sk next st, sc in next st; rep from * around, ending ch 3, join with sl st to first sc. (4 ch-3 loops = bat wings)

Round 3: Sl st into first ch-3 loop, ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc) in same loop, rep in each ch-3 loop around. Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off, leaving a 10-inch tail. (4 wing scallops)

Shape ears: With the tail threaded on a yarn needle, take 2 small stitches at the top center of the bat to pinch two tiny pointed ears. Secure and weave in.

Assembly and Finishing

Attach the bats: Pin one bat flat at each bottom corner of the rug, about 2 inches in from the side edge and 2 inches up from the bottom edge, with the wings pointing outward. Using matching blush yarn and a yarn needle, whipstitch around the center body of each bat only, leaving the wing scallops free for a raised appliqué look. To whipstitch, bring the needle up through the rug and over the edge of the bat, then back down, repeating closely all the way around the body. Weave in the ends on the wrong side.

Weave in all ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the back of the fabric for about 2 inches, then trim close. Never knot your tails — knots work loose and create bumps.

Blocking: Lay the rug wrong side up on a towel or blocking mats. Lightly mist with water until damp but not soaking. Pin the corners square and smooth the chevron points so they lie flat. Let it dry completely (usually overnight). Steam-blocking lightly on the wrong side also works well to flatten the rug and open the chevron points.

Final check: Trim any loose tails. The rug should lie flat; if the edges cup, block more firmly and leave the pins in longer.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the color story: Swap emerald and blush for charcoal and pumpkin orange for a bolder Halloween look, or cream and sage for a year-round mat. Keep two colors so the chevron stripes stay crisp.
• Adjust the size: To make the rug wider, add or remove ripple repeats in multiples of 14 stitches (each repeat adds about 3.3 inches). To make it longer, simply work more 2-row color pairs before the border — just buy extra yarn, roughly 25 yards per added pair.
• Substitute yarn: Any bulky (category 5) yarn works, but choose a smooth, tightly spun wool or wool blend so the rug wears well and the ripple stays defined. Avoid fluffy novelty yarns for a floor mat, as they pill and mat down quickly.
• Make the bats pop: Work the bats in a contrasting color, or add a tiny embroidered eye with a scrap of black yarn before attaching them, for a playful finishing touch.