Nordic Granny Candy Twist Crochet Ornament Free Pattern

Nordic Granny Candy Twist Crochet Ornament: A Beginner's First Project

If you have never held a crochet hook before, this is the perfect first project for you. This little wrapped-candy ornament is made from just two small granny squares, joined together and pinched at the ends to create that classic twisted-candy shape. It looks like a sweet shop treat in ice blue and silver, soft and slightly fuzzy thanks to the super bulky roving-style yarn, and it feels wonderfully squishy in your hand. Because it uses only four rounds per square and a big, easy-to-hold hook, you will have a finished, giftable ornament in about an hour. Hang it on a tree, a doorknob, or a gift bag, and you will have made something beautiful on your very first try.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Super bulky (weight 6) yarn, approximately 40 yards total: 25 yards ice blue (Color A) and 15 yards silver (Color B). The sample used a soft roving-style super bulky yarn.
• Crochet hook: Size N/P-15 (10.0 mm), or the size needed to match gauge.
• Stitch markers: At least 4, to mark corners and the first stitch of each round.
• Tapestry needle: A large-eye, blunt-tip needle for seaming and weaving in ends.
• Scissors: Sharp craft scissors for trimming yarn.
• Polyester fiberfill: About a golf-ball size amount for light stuffing.
• Finished size: Each granny square measures 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm). The finished ornament is approximately 8 inches (20 cm) long from loop tip to loop tip, about 4 inches (10 cm) wide at the candy body, and about 2 inches (5 cm) wide at each pinched end.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch – chain: wrap the yarn over your hook and pull it through the loop on your hook. This creates one chain stitch.
• sl st – slip stitch: insert your hook into the stitch, wrap yarn over, and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook at the same time. It makes a nearly invisible joining stitch.
• sc – single crochet: insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), wrap yarn over, pull through both loops. One single crochet made.
• dc – double crochet: wrap yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap yarn over and pull through 2 loops, wrap yarn over and pull through the last 2 loops. One double crochet made.
• sp – space: the gap between stitches, usually under a chain from the previous round. You work your stitches into this gap rather than into a stitch.
• st(s) – stitch(es): a single completed loop or the place where you insert your hook.
• rnd – round: one complete circle of work in the round.
• magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn you make with your fingers, then crochet into. Pulling the tail tight closes the center hole completely. (If you prefer, you can ch 4 and join with a sl st to form a ring instead.)
• fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work, then pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
• whipstitch – a simple sewing stitch: bring the needle up through both layers, then over the edge and back down, repeating along the seam.
• gathering stitch – a running stitch sewn around an opening; when you pull the thread tight, the opening cinches closed like a drawstring bag.
• blocking – dampening or steaming your finished piece and pinning it to the correct size so it dries flat and even.

Gauge

Gauge: 1 granny square = 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm) after blocking. Two rounds of the granny square measure approximately 2 inches (5 cm) across.

Gauge matters because it tells you whether your finished ornament will be the right size. If your square comes out much smaller than 4 inches, your ornament will be tiny; if it comes out much larger, the candy body will be too big and floppy. To check, simply crochet one complete granny square following the instructions below, block it, and measure it. If it is too small, try a larger hook; if it is too large, try a smaller hook. Because this project is small, one square is all the swatch you need, and you can use it as one of your two ornament squares.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Work loosely. Super bulky yarn is thick, so keep your tension relaxed. If you pull too tight, your hook will fight you and your square will curl.
• Use stitch markers. Place one in each ch-2 corner space and one in the first stitch of every round. This keeps your corners in the right place and stops you from losing your starting point.
• Count your clusters. Each "cluster" is 3 double crochets worked into the same space. Counting clusters (not individual stitches) is the easiest way to keep track.
• Ch 3 counts as your first dc. At the start of every round, the chain of 3 stands in for one double crochet, so do not work an extra dc into that same spot.
• Block before joining. Blocking the squares first makes them flat and square, which makes seaming much easier for a beginner.
• Do not overstuff. A small amount of fiberfill gives the candy body gentle loft. Too much and the ornament will bulge and lose its twist shape.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Granny Square (Make 2)

Notes: Color A (ice blue) is used for Rounds 1 and 4; Color B (silver) for Rounds 2 and 3. Ch 3 at the start of a round counts as the first dc. Join each round with a sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3.

Round 1 (Color A): With Color A, make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc into ring, [ch 2, 3 dc into ring] 3 times, ch 2, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off Color A. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)

Round 2 (Color B): Join Color B with sl st in any ch-2 sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp (first corner made), [ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp] 3 times, ch 1, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off Color B. (24 dc, 4 corners, 4 ch-1 sps)

Round 3 (Color B): Join Color B with sl st in any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner ch-2 sp] 3 times, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off Color B. (36 dc, 4 corners, 8 ch-1 sps)

Round 4 (Color A): Join Color A with sl st in any ch-2 corner sp, ch 3, 2 dc in same sp, ch 2, 3 dc in same sp, [ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next corner ch-2 sp] 3 times, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Fasten off, leaving a 12-inch (30 cm) tail. (48 dc, 4 corners, 12 ch-1 sps)

Your square should measure approximately 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm). Block both squares to measurement and let them dry completely.

Joining the Squares

• Place the two squares wrong sides together, matching corners and stitches, with the Color A Round 4 edges facing outward.
• With Color A threaded on a tapestry needle, whipstitch around three sides only (two full sides and one half of the third side), working through the back loops of the outer edge stitches so the seam stays flat. Leave an opening of approximately 2 inches (5 cm).
• Lightly stuff the joined squares with a small amount of polyester fiberfill (about a golf-ball size) to give the candy body gentle loft. Do not overstuff; the ornament should stay flat-ish.
• Whipstitch the remaining opening closed. Weave in ends.

Pinching and Twisting the Candy Ends

• Fold the joined square in half along the center line so the two short edges meet, forming a tube-like candy shape with the seam at the back.
• With Color A threaded on a tapestry needle, run a gathering stitch around one open end, approximately 1/2 inch (1.3 cm) from the edge, through both layers. Pull tightly to cinch the end closed and secure with 2–3 small stitches. Repeat on the opposite end.
• Wrap Color B around each cinched end 3 times, approximately 1/4 inch (6 mm) apart, pulling snugly to create the twisted-candy ridges. Secure the wraps with a small knot on the underside and weave in ends.

Crocheted Hanging Loops (Make 2)

Loop: With Color B, ch 10, join with sl st to first ch to form a ring, then work 12 sc into the ring, join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off, leaving a 6-inch (15 cm) tail. (12 sc) Make a second loop the same way.

Attaching the Loops

• Thread the tail of one loop onto a tapestry needle and sew it firmly to one cinched end of the candy, passing through the cinched fabric several times to anchor. Repeat with the second loop at the opposite end.
• Weave in all remaining ends.

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming: Your whipstitch seam should sit flat and invisible from the front. To whipstitch, bring the needle up through both layers from the inside, then over the edge and back down, repeating in even stitches about 1/4 inch (6 mm) apart. Keep the stitches snug but not tight so the seam does not pucker.

Weaving in ends: Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and run it through the back of several stitches, changing direction once, then trim close to the work. Changing direction locks the tail so it will not work loose.

Blocking: Steam-block lightly by holding a steam iron a few inches above the ornament (never press it flat), then shape the candy body and the pinched ends with your fingers. Let it dry completely. Trim any loose fibers. Your ornament is complete and ready to hang.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap ice blue and silver for classic red and white for a peppermint candy, or use green and gold for a woodland look. Keep the same two-color rhythm (A, B, B, A) so the granny pattern still pops.
• Adjust the size: For a smaller ornament, use a smaller hook and lighter yarn (such as worsted weight with a 5.5 mm hook) and stop after Round 3. For a larger one, add a fifth round in Color B, working 3 dc in each ch-1 space and (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in each corner.
• Substitute yarn: Any super bulky weight 6 yarn works. If you use a smoother yarn, your stitch definition will be crisper; if you use a fuzzy roving yarn, the ornament will look softer and more like real candy floss.
• Add a hanger variation: Instead of two loops, attach a single long chain loop to the top end only and hang the candy vertically like a real wrapped sweet.