Desert Bloom Tulle Wrap Skirt Free Pattern: A Boho Crochet Tutu

Desert Bloom Tulle Wrap Skirt: A Free Boho Crochet Pattern

If you have ever wanted to wear something you made with your own two hands, this is that project. The Desert Bloom Tulle Wrap Skirt is a bohemian, sunset-inspired wrap skirt with a wide ribbed waistband and two floaty tiers of open-mesh "yarn tulle" worked in warm terracotta and soft sand stripes. It looks like a desert sky at golden hour, and it feels light, airy, and a little bit magical when you move. This pattern is written for the adventurous maker who has crocheted before and is ready for a bigger, more rewarding project. Every single stitch is explained, so even if this is your first garment, you can follow along step by step.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) acrylic or cotton blend. Approximately 400 yards terracotta (rust orange) and 250 yards sand (light beige).
• Extra yarn for ties: 1 additional skein of matching terracotta for the waistband ties and tassels.
• Crochet hook: Size H/8 (5.0 mm) for the skirt body, plus size G/6 (4.0 mm) for the waistband.
• Stitch markers: At least 6, to mark the start of rounds and the wrap overlap.
• Tapestry needle: A large blunt needle for weaving in ends and seaming the waistband.
• Scissors: Sharp craft scissors for cutting yarn and tassels.
• Measuring tape: For checking gauge and length.
• Finished size: Waist circumference 28–32 inches (adjustable wrap), length approximately 16 inches from waistband to hem. The wrap overlap gives 2–4 inches of adjustability.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is listed here in plain English. Read this section once before you begin, and come back to it any time a term feels unfamiliar.

• ch – chain: yarn over the hook, pull the loop through the loop on your hook. This makes a small loop.
• sc – single crochet: insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops. One loop remains.
• dc – double crochet: yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through last 2 loops.
• sl st – slip stitch: insert hook into stitch, yarn over, pull the loop straight through the loop on your hook. This joins stitches without adding height.
• sk – skip: do not work into the next stitch; move past it to the following one.
• sp – space: the gap created by a chain (for example, a "ch-2 sp" is the hole under a chain of 2).
• st(s) – stitch(es).
• BLO – back loop only: work into just the back half of the "V" at the top of the stitch, not both loops. This creates a ribbed texture.
• FLO – front loop only: work into just the front half of the "V."
• yo – yarn over: wrap the yarn from back to front over your hook.
• RS – right side: the "pretty" outside face of your work.
• Rnd – round: one complete circle of stitches worked in the round.
• Rep – repeat: do the same instruction again.
• Join – connect the last stitch of a round to the first with a slip stitch so the round closes into a circle.

Gauge

Open-mesh pattern: 4 mesh squares = 4 inches (10 cm); 6 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm).
Waistband in sc ribbing (smaller hook): 18 sts and 16 rows = 4 inches (10 cm).

Why gauge matters: Gauge is how many stitches and rows fit into a set measurement. If your stitches are looser or tighter than the pattern expects, your skirt will come out too big or too small. Because this skirt is worn on the body, gauge is especially important.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your larger hook and terracotta yarn, chain 21. Work the open-mesh pattern (Rnds 1–4 from the instructions below) until your swatch is about 5 inches tall. Lay it flat without stretching and measure a 4-inch section in the middle. Count how many mesh squares fit across and how many rounds fit down. If you have more squares than 4, your stitches are too small — try a larger hook. If you have fewer, try a smaller hook. Always swatch before you start.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use stitch markers to track rounds. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round so you never lose your place. This is the single biggest lifesaver in circular crochet.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. The mesh needs to stay open and airy. Keep an even, relaxed tension so the chain spaces stay visible.
• Count your stitches at the end of every round. The stitch counts in parentheses tell you exactly what you should have. If a count is off, fix it before moving on.
• Mark your wrap overlap. Use a stitch marker to hold the 4-inch front overlap in place while you work so it does not shift.
• Change colors at the join. When switching from terracotta to sand, finish the last stitch of the round with the new color so the change looks clean.
• Work in good light. Open-mesh stitches are small and easy to miscount in dim lighting. Good light keeps you accurate and happy.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Skill level: Experienced. The skirt is worked in the round from the waist down. The wrap opening is created by working the waistband flat, then joining it into a ring with a front overlap.

Part 1: Waistband (worked flat with smaller G/6 hook)

With terracotta and the 4.0 mm hook:

Set-up: Ch 12.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (11 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st across, turn. (11 sc)

Rows 3–120: Repeat Row 2 until the band measures 30 inches, ending with a 24-inch tail. (11 sc per row; 120 rows total) Do not fasten off yet.

Join the band: Fold the band in half lengthwise so the ribbed texture faces out. Using a slip stitch, join the foundation edge to the last row through both layers to form a tube, leaving a 4-inch overlap at the front for the wrap closure. Fasten off and weave in ends. Add two 18-inch twisted cord ties at the overlap edges (twist two strands of terracotta yarn tightly, then knot the ends).

Part 2: Skirt Body Set-Up (switch to larger H/8 hook)

Join terracotta to the bottom edge of the waistband with the right side facing you.

Set-up Rnd: Work 1 sc in each row-end along the bottom edge of the waistband, distributing evenly to 96 sc (a multiple of 2). Join with sl st to first sc. (96 sc — approx 30 inches circumference)

Part 3: Tier 1 (terracotta and sand stripes)

Rnd 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each sc around, join with sl st to top of ch-3. (96 dc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, sk 1 dc, sc in next dc; rep from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (48 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 3: Ch 3, *dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * around, dc in last sp, join with sl st to ch-3. (48 dc, 48 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc; rep from * around, join. (48 ch-2 sps)

Change to sand.

Rnds 5–6: Repeat Rnds 3–4. (48 ch-2 sps)

Change to terracotta.

Rnds 7–8: Repeat Rnds 3–4. (48 ch-2 sps)

Change to sand.

Rnds 9–10: Repeat Rnds 3–4. (48 ch-2 sps)

Change to terracotta.

Rnds 11–12: Repeat Rnds 3–4. (48 ch-2 sps) Fasten off.

Part 4: Tier 2 (wider, layered below Tier 1)

Join sand to any ch-2 sp of Tier 1 Rnd 12.

Rnd 1: Ch 3, dc in same sp, *ch 1, dc in next ch-2 sp; rep from * around, join. (48 dc, 48 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc; rep from * around, join. (48 ch-2 sps)

Rnd 3: Ch 3, *dc in next ch-2 sp, ch 1; rep from * around, join. (48 dc, 48 ch-1 sps)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in first dc, *ch 2, sk ch-1 sp, sc in next dc; rep from * around, join. (48 ch-2 sps)

Change to terracotta.

Rnds 5–6: Repeat Rnds 3–4. (48 ch-2 sps)

Change to sand.

Rnds 7–8: Repeat Rnds 3–4. (48 ch-2 sps)

Change to terracotta.

Rnds 9–10: Repeat Rnds 3–4. (48 ch-2 sps)

Change to sand.

Rnds 11–12: Repeat Rnds 3–4. (48 ch-2 sps)

Change to terracotta.

Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in each dc and ch-1 sp around, join. (96 sc)

Rnd 14: Ch 1, sc in each sc around, join. Fasten off and weave in ends. (96 sc)

Assembly and Finishing

Seaming the waistband: The waistband is joined into a tube with a slip stitch through both layers, leaving the 4-inch front overlap. Use your tapestry needle to neatly stitch the overlap edges so they lie flat and do not curl.

Weaving in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle and weave it back and forth through the back of several stitches (about 2 inches), then trim close to the work. Never knot your ends — knots create bumps that show through the mesh.

Blocking: Lightly mist the finished skirt with cool water and pin it flat on a towel or blocking mat, gently opening the mesh squares with your fingers. Let it dry completely. Blocking opens the tulle texture and helps the skirt hang evenly.

Tassels: Make a small tassel in terracotta and sand for each front tie end. Wrap yarn around a 3-inch piece of cardboard about 15 times, slide it off, tie a strand tightly around the top, and trim the bottom. Attach one tassel to each tie end with a secure knot.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the color story: Swap terracotta and sand for dusty rose and cream, or sage and ivory, to match your wardrobe. Keep the two-round stripe rhythm for the same layered look.
• Adjust the size: The waistband is fully adjustable because it wraps. To make the skirt larger or smaller, add or remove rows from the waistband and adjust the set-up round to any multiple of 2 stitches (each 2 stitches adds one mesh square).
• Substitute yarn: A cotton blend gives lovely drape and is cool to wear; acrylic is durable and easy to care for. Always check your gauge again if you change fiber.
• Add a third tier: For a fuller tutu effect, repeat the Tier 2 instructions once more below the hem, working the final two solid sc rounds at the very bottom.