Witch's Hat Ribbed Brim Bauble Free Crochet Pattern

Witch's Hat Ribbed Brim Bauble — Free Beginner Crochet Pattern

Introduction

This little witch hat bauble is the perfect first project for anyone who has never held a crochet hook before. It is a flat orange triangle with a plush cobalt-blue ribbed brim seamed along the wide edge, and a tiny hanging loop at the tip so you can dangle it from a hook, a tree, or a doorknob. Worked in soft velvet yarn, the finished hat feels squishy and cozy — like a tiny hygge heirloom — and measures just 4 inches tall and 4.5 inches wide, so it works up in an evening. There is no shaping in the round, no complicated stitch patterns, and no sewing until the very end. If you can make a slip knot and pull a loop through a loop, you can make this hat. Let's get started!

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Worsted-weight (CYC 4) velvet or chenille-style yarn — approximately 25 yd (23 m) orange and 15 yd (14 m) cobalt blue. The sample used a plush chenille-style velvet yarn.
• Crochet hook: Size H-8 (5.0 mm), or whatever size you need to match the gauge below.
• Stitch markers: 2–4 (helpful for counting your first stitches and for marking the ends of the triangle).
• Tapestry needle (yarn needle): a large-eyed blunt needle for seaming and weaving in ends.
• Scissors for cutting yarn.
• Pins (optional but helpful) for holding the brim in place while you sew.

Finished size: Hat triangle about 4 in (10 cm) tall from point to wide edge and 4.5 in (11.5 cm) wide along the brim edge. Brim strip about 4.5 in (11.5 cm) long x 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. Hanging loop about 1.5 in (4 cm).

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

Every abbreviation used in this pattern is listed below. Read through them once before you begin — no prior knowledge is assumed!

• ch — chain. Make a loop, yarn over (wrap the yarn around your hook), and pull it through the loop on your hook. That is one chain.
• st / sts — stitch / stitches. A stitch is one completed loop of yarn on your work.
• sc — single crochet. Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (you now have 2 loops on the hook), yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One single crochet made.
• hdc — half double crochet. Yarn over first, insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops at once.
• sl st — slip stitch. Insert hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull the yarn straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook. It makes a flat, tight join.
• fphdc — front post half double crochet. Work a half double crochet, but instead of going into the top of the stitch, insert your hook from front to back around the post (the vertical body) of the stitch below, then complete the hdc as usual. This pushes the stitch forward and creates a raised ridge.
• bphdc — back post half double crochet. Same as fphdc, but insert your hook from back to front around the post of the stitch below. This pushes the stitch backward and creates a recessed ridge.
• 2 sc in first st — work two single crochets into the same stitch. This is an increase and adds one stitch to your row.
• turn — flip your work over so you can work back across the row you just made.
• fasten off — cut the yarn a few inches from your work, then pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
• weave in ends — thread a yarn tail onto a tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the back of your work so it disappears.
• right sides facing — the "pretty" front of each piece touching each other, with the messy backs facing out.
• whipstitch — a simple over-and-over sewing stitch: bring the needle up through both layers, over the edge, and back up again, working along the seam.
• mattress stitch — a seaming stitch that goes side to side between the two edges, creating an invisible join. Either whipstitch or mattress stitch works here.

Gauge

Gauge: 14 sc x 16 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in single crochet. For the ribbed brim strip: 16 sts x 14 rows = 4 in (10 cm) in front/back post half double crochet ribbing.

Why gauge matters: Gauge is simply how big your stitches turn out. If your stitches are bigger than the pattern's, your hat will come out larger than 4 inches; if smaller, it will come out tiny. Matching gauge means your finished hat will match the measurements and the brim strip will fit the triangle edge perfectly.

How to make a gauge swatch: With your orange yarn and H-8 hook, chain 20. Work single crochet rows until the piece is about 4 inches tall. Lay it flat and measure a 4-inch square in the middle. Count how many stitches fit across 4 inches and how many rows fit in 4 inches. If you have more than 14 stitches, your stitches are too small — try a larger hook. If you have fewer than 14, try a smaller hook. The velvet yarn is fuzzy, so measure gently and don't stretch the fabric.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Count every row. The triangle grows by exactly 2 stitches every other row. Place a stitch marker in the first stitch of each row so you never lose your place.
• Don't pull the yarn too tight. Velvet yarn is slippery and easy to over-tighten. Keep your loops relaxed and even — snug, not strangling the hook.
• The turning chain does not count as a stitch. Always work your first stitch into the very first stitch of the row, not into the chain. This keeps your edges straight.
• Work the increases at both ends. "2 sc in first st" and "2 sc in last st" happen in the same row — that's how the triangle widens evenly.
• Keep the right side facing you. After you turn, the fuzzy "pretty" side should always face out. If it looks messy, you've turned the wrong way — just flip it back.
• Don't skip the gauge swatch. It takes five minutes and saves you from a hat that doesn't fit its brim.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Part 1: Hat Triangle (make 1 with orange)

The hat is worked flat in rows from the point down to the wide edge, increasing at both ends of every other row. Ch 1 at the beginning of a row does not count as a stitch. Work the first stitch of each row into the first stitch, not into the turning chain.

• Row 1: Ch 2. Work 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook. (1 sc)
• Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Work 3 sc in the same st. (3 sc)
• Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, 2 sc in last st. (5 sc)
• Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (5 sc)
• Row 5: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (7 sc)
• Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (7 sc)
• Row 7: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (9 sc)
• Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (9 sc)
• Row 9: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (11 sc)
• Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (11 sc)
• Row 11: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (13 sc)
• Row 12: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (13 sc)
• Row 13: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (15 sc)
• Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (15 sc)
• Row 15: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (17 sc)
• Row 16: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (17 sc)
• Row 17: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (19 sc)
• Row 18: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (19 sc)
• Row 19: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (21 sc)
• Row 20: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (21 sc)
• Row 21: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (23 sc)
• Row 22: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (23 sc)
• Row 23: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in last st. (25 sc)
• Row 24: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (25 sc)

Fasten off orange, leaving a 6 in (15 cm) tail. Weave in the starting tail. The wide edge of the triangle now measures about 4.5 in (11.5 cm) across and the triangle is about 4 in (10 cm) tall.

Part 2: Ribbed Brim Strip (make 1 with cobalt)

The strip is worked sideways in rows of front/back post half double crochet so the ridges run vertically when seamed to the hat. Ch 2 at the beginning of a brim row does not count as a stitch.

• Row 1: Ch 18. Hdc in the 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. (16 hdc)
• Row 2: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in first st. *Fphdc around the next st, bphdc around the next st; repeat from * to the last st, hdc in last st. (16 sts)
• Row 3: Ch 2, turn. Hdc in first st. *Bphdc around the next st, fphdc around the next st; repeat from * to the last st, hdc in last st. (16 sts)
• Rows 4–7: Repeat Rows 2–3 twice more, then repeat Row 2 once more. (7 rows total, 16 sts each)

Fasten off cobalt, leaving a long 18 in (45 cm) seaming tail. The strip measures about 4.5 in (11.5 cm) long x 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.

Part 3: Hanging Loop

• Row 1: With cobalt, ch 8, leaving a 4 in (10 cm) tail at the start. Sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (7 sl sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 4 in (10 cm) tail. This makes a small cord about 1.5 in (4 cm) long.

Assembly and Finishing

1. Pin the brim in place. Lay the orange triangle flat with the wide edge at the bottom. Place the long edge of the ribbed brim strip along the wide edge of the triangle, right sides facing, matching the 4.5 in (11.5 cm) widths. The ribbed ridges should run perpendicular (up and down) to the seam. Pin along the edge if you like.
2. Sew the brim. Thread the long cobalt tail onto your tapestry needle. Using whipstitch or mattress stitch, sew the strip to the triangle along the wide edge, working through both layers. Keep your stitches small and even so the seam stays hidden. Remove the pins as you go.
3. Attach the hanging loop. Fold the short ends of the hanging loop together to form a loop. Sew both ends securely to the wrong side (the back) of the hat point, about 1/4 in (6 mm) from the tip. Knot the tails and weave them in.
4. Weave in all remaining tails. Thread each tail onto the tapestry needle and sew it back and forth through the back of the work for about an inch, then trim close to the fabric.
5. Block and shape. Gently steam the hat or spritz it lightly with water, then finger-shape it flat so the triangle lies straight and the brim ridges stand up. Let it dry completely before hanging. Velvet yarn should never be pressed with a hot iron — steam only.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Change the colors: Swap the orange and cobalt for any two colors you love — classic black and purple, or a soft sage and cream for a year-round hygge look. Keep the brim in a contrasting color so the ribbing stands out.
• Make it taller: For a slightly taller hat, work Rows 25–26 as an increase row and an even row once more (27 sc), then add one more brim row pair to lengthen the strip to match. Always keep the brim strip about the same width as the triangle's wide edge.
• Substitute yarn: Any worsted-weight (CYC 4) yarn works — acrylic, cotton, or a soft wool blend. Just check your gauge first, since velvet yarn behaves differently from smooth yarns.
• Make a garland: Work five or six hats in alternating colors and string them together with a length of yarn through the hanging loops for an instant Halloween garland.