Lilah Sweater Free Pattern – Cozy Textured Knit Pullover with Ribbed Sleeves

Wrap yourself in the Lilah Sweater, a modern knit pullover featuring a unique honeycomb cable panel and soft, relaxed fit. This pattern is perfect for intermediate knitters seeking a cozy, wardrobe-staple project. The combination of smooth stockinette stitch and an intricate central cable panel creates a garment that looks professionally made but is surprisingly approachable. Whether you're knitting for yourself or as a gift, this sweater delivers warmth, style, and that satisfying "I made this" feeling.

This pattern is designed to be worked in the round from the bottom up, minimizing seaming and allowing you to try on your work as you go. The honeycomb cable panel adds visual interest without overwhelming the overall design, making it an excellent project for knitters ready to expand their cable skills. With sizes ranging from XS to XL, you can customize the fit to perfection.

Materials Needed

Before you begin, gather the following supplies to ensure a smooth knitting experience:

• Yarn: Worsted weight yarn (e.g., Lion Brand Wool-Ease) – approximately 1200 (1350, 1500, 1650, 1800) yards depending on size. The sample shown uses a warm oatmeal cream color, but any worsted weight yarn will work beautifully.
• Needles: US 8 (5 mm) circular needles, 24-32 inches long for the body; US 8 (5 mm) double-pointed needles for sleeves (or use the magic loop method with a long circular needle).
• Notions: Stitch markers (at least 6), cable needle, tapestry needle for weaving in ends, stitch holders or waste yarn for holding front stitches.

Gauge: 18 stitches and 24 rows = 4 inches in stockinette stitch (after blocking). Always knit a gauge swatch first to ensure your finished sweater matches the intended measurements.

Pattern Overview

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL) – Finished chest: 34 (38, 42, 46, 50) inches. Choose the size that gives you 2-4 inches of positive ease for that relaxed, cozy fit.

Abbreviations:

• CO = cast on
• K = knit
• P = purl
• K2tog = knit two together
• P2tog = purl two together
• C4F = slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in front, knit next 2 stitches, then knit 2 from cable needle
• C4B = slip 2 stitches to cable needle, hold in back, knit next 2 stitches, then knit 2 from cable needle
• M1 = make one (increase)
• PM = place marker
• SM = slip marker

Special Stitch Pattern – Honeycomb Panel (worked over 12 stitches)

This cable pattern creates the signature textured panel on the front of the sweater. Work it exactly as written:

• Row 1 (RS): K6, P6.
• Row 2 (WS): K6, P6.
• Row 3: C4F, K2, P6.
• Row 4: K6, P6.
• Row 5: K6, P6.
• Row 6: K6, P6.
• Row 7: K2, C4B, P6.
• Row 8: K6, P6.

Repeat rows 1-8 for the pattern. The cable crosses alternate direction every 6 rows, creating that beautiful honeycomb effect. Place a marker on each side of this panel to help you keep track.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Body (worked in one piece to armholes)

Step 1: CO 152 (170, 188, 206, 224) stitches. Join in the round, being careful not to twist your stitches. PM at the beginning of the round to mark the start.

Step 2: Work ribbing: *K2, P2* repeat to end of round. Continue in this rib pattern for 2 inches. This creates the hem of your sweater.

Step 3: Next round: K all stitches, increasing 4 (4, 6, 6, 8) stitches evenly spaced around the round. You should now have 156 (174, 194, 212, 232) stitches total. To increase evenly, divide your stitch count by the number of increases needed and place your M1 increases at those intervals.

Step 4: Set up pattern round: K 30 (36, 41, 46, 51) stitches (this is the front left section), PM, work Honeycomb Panel over the next 12 stitches, PM, K 30 (36, 41, 46, 51) stitches (front right section), PM, K 72 (78, 88, 96, 106) stitches (back section).

Step 5: Continue in pattern: knit all stitches except work the Honeycomb Panel between the markers on the front. The back remains in stockinette stitch (knit every round). Work until the piece measures 12 (13, 14, 15, 16) inches from the cast-on edge, ending after completing a full pattern repeat (ideally after a WS row equivalent in the round).

Divide for Armholes

Step 6: Next round: Work to 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) stitches before the first side marker, bind off 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) stitches for the underarm (remove the marker as you go), work to 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) stitches before the next side marker, bind off 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) stitches for the second underarm, work to end of round.

Step 7: You now have 132 (146, 162, 176, 192) stitches total – 66 (73, 81, 88, 96) for the front and 66 (73, 81, 88, 96) for the back. Place the front stitches on a holder or waste yarn. You'll work the back first.

Back

Step 8: Work back and forth on the back stitches only. Continue in stockinette stitch (knit on RS, purl on WS) until the armhole measures 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) inches from the underarm bind-off.

Step 9: Shape shoulders: Bind off 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows (this shapes both shoulders). Then bind off the remaining 34 (37, 41, 44, 48) stitches for the back neck. Cut yarn and set aside.

Front

Step 10: Return the front stitches to your needle. Continue in pattern (with the Honeycomb Panel) until the armhole measures 5 (6, 7, 8, 9) inches, ending with a WS row. This gives you the dropped neckline effect.

Step 11: Shape neck: Work 24 (27, 30, 33, 36) stitches, join a second ball of yarn, bind off the center 18 (19, 21, 22, 24) stitches, work to end of row. You'll now work both sides of the neck separately.

Step 12: Working both sides simultaneously with separate balls of yarn, decrease 1 stitch at each neck edge every other row 4 times. To decrease at the neck edge: on the right side, K2tog at the neck edge; on the left side, SSK or K2tog through the back loop at the neck edge.

Step 13: Continue working even until the armhole measures 7 (8, 9, 10, 11) inches. Shape shoulders as for the back: bind off 8 (9, 10, 11, 12) stitches at the beginning of the next 4 rows (2 rows per shoulder side).

Sleeves (make 2)

Step 14: CO 40 (44, 48, 52, 56) stitches. Join in the round, PM. Work K2, P2 ribbing for 2 inches.

Step 15: Knit all stitches, increasing 4 stitches evenly around the round – you should now have 44 (48, 52, 56, 60) stitches.

Step 16: Increase round: K1, M1, knit to the last stitch, M1, K1. This creates increases at the underarm seam.

Step 17: Repeat the increase round every 6 (6, 7, 7, 8) rows until you have 64 (70, 76, 82, 88) stitches on your needles. This gradual increase creates the sleeve taper.

Step 18: Work even (no increases) until the sleeve measures 17 (18, 19, 20, 21) inches from the cast-on edge. Bind off all stitches loosely – you want the bind-off to be stretchy so it doesn't pucker at the underarm.

Finishing

Step 19: Sew the shoulder seams using mattress stitch or your preferred seaming method. Take care to match the stitch counts perfectly for a professional finish.

Step 20: Set in the sleeves: sew the underarm bound-off edges of the sleeves to the underarm bind-off of the body. Then sew the sleeve caps into the armhole openings, easing in any fullness evenly.

Step 21: Pick up and knit 80 (88, 96, 104, 112) stitches around the neckline. To do this, start at the left shoulder seam and pick up stitches evenly around the entire neck opening. Work K2, P2 ribbing for 1.5 inches. Bind off loosely in pattern – use a larger needle or a stretchy bind-off method if needed.

Step 22: Weave in all ends with your tapestry needle. Take your time here – secure ends well so they don't work loose with wear.

Step 23: Block to measurements. Wet block or steam block according to your yarn's care instructions. This step is crucial for evening out the stitches, especially the cable panel, and achieving that beautiful, professional drape.

Tips for Success

Read through the entire pattern before beginning. Understanding how the pieces fit together will help you make informed decisions as you knit.

Use lifelines before starting the cable panel and at regular intervals throughout. If you make a mistake, you can easily rip back to the lifeline without losing all your work.

Count your stitches regularly, especially after cable rows. It's much easier to fix a mistake early than to discover it 10 rows later.

Try on your work as you go (if using circular needles). The body is worked in the round, so you can easily check the length and fit before dividing for armholes.

Keep your cable needle handy and consider using a locking stitch marker to hold the cable needle stitches if you need to set your work down mid-cable.

The Lilah Sweater is a rewarding project that will become a staple in your handmade wardrobe. The honeycomb cable panel is the star of the show, but the clean stockinette body and ribbed details make it versatile enough to pair with everything from jeans to skirts. Happy knitting!