Harbor Coasters in Stripe Rounds: Free Crochet Pattern

Harbor Coasters in Stripe Rounds: A Beginner's First Crochet Project

If you have never held a crochet hook before, these Harbor Coasters are the perfect place to begin. Each coaster is a simple flat circle worked in a continuous spiral, so you will practice just one stitch over and over while watching calm, concentric rings of warm cream and muted denim blue grow outward. The super bulky cotton-blend yarn is thick and forgiving, which means your stitches are easy to see and your project works up in minutes rather than weeks. The finished coasters are dense, sturdy, and about four inches across, with a slightly raised spiral texture and a crisp contrasting edge that looks far more polished than the effort involved. Make one to learn, then make a set of four to gift or to dress up your own coffee table.

Materials Needed

• Yarn: Super bulky (weight 6) cotton-blend yarn. For a set of four coasters you need approximately 60 yd (55 m) of Cream (Color A) and 60 yd (55 m) of Denim Blue (Color B) total, which is about 30 yd (27 m) of combined yarn per coaster.
• Crochet hook: Size M/13 (9.0 mm). The "M/13" is the US size and "9.0 mm" is the metric size; they are the same hook.
• Stitch marker: One per coaster in progress (a removable marker, a safety pin, or even a scrap of contrasting yarn works).
• Tapestry needle: A large-eyed, blunt-tipped needle for weaving in yarn tails.
• Scissors: Any sharp pair for cutting yarn.
• Finished size: Each coaster measures approximately 4 in (10 cm) in diameter and about 1/4 in (6 mm) thick.

Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary

• ch – chain: Yarn over the hook (wrap the yarn around the hook), then pull that loop through the loop already on your hook. This creates one chain stitch. (This pattern does not actually use chains, but you will see the term in other patterns.)
• sc – single crochet: Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (you now have two loops on the hook), yarn over again, and pull through both loops. One single crochet made.
• sl st – slip stitch: Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, and pull that loop straight through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. It creates a nearly invisible joining stitch.
• st(s) – stitch(es): One completed stitch, or several.
• rnd – round: One complete trip around the circle. In this pattern each round is worked in a spiral, so you go around and around without stopping.
• magic ring (also called an adjustable ring): A loop of yarn you make with your fingers that you crochet into, then pull closed like a drawstring so there is no hole in the center. If the magic ring feels tricky, you can instead ch 2 and work your first round into the first chain, but the magic ring gives a tidier center.
• 2 sc in next st – work two single crochets into the same stitch. This is called an "increase" and it is how the circle grows wider.
• yarn over – wrap the working yarn (the strand coming from the ball) around your hook from back to front.
• fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work, then pull the tail all the way through the last loop to lock it.
• right side – the front, prettier face of the fabric that you want showing.
• wrong side – the back face of the fabric where you hide your yarn tails.

Gauge

Gauge is not critical for this project; work with consistent tension. For reference, your first 2 rounds should measure approximately 2 in (5 cm) across.

Gauge simply means how big your stitches come out. If your stitches are looser or tighter than average, your coaster will be a little larger or smaller, and for coasters that is completely fine. What matters is that all four coasters in your set match each other, so try to crochet with the same relaxed tension every time. To check, work Rounds 1 and 2 of one coaster, lay it flat, and measure across the circle. If it is close to 2 inches, you are right on track. If it is much bigger, you are pulling your yarn loosely; if much smaller, you are pulling tight. Either way, no need to start over, just adjust how firmly you hold the yarn for the rest of the set.

Beginner Tips Before You Start

• Use a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round. Because you are working in a spiral, there is no seam to tell you where a round begins. Move the marker up each round and you will never lose your place.
• Do not pull your yarn too tight. Super bulky yarn needs a little breathing room. If your stitches feel stiff and hard to insert your hook into, relax your grip.
• Change colors on the last yarn-over of the final stitch of the round. This means you finish that last stitch using the new color, which hides the transition neatly. It feels awkward the first time; it will feel natural by the fourth coaster.
• Keep your beginning tail long. Leave about 6 inches (15 cm) so you have plenty to weave in later and to pull the magic ring closed.
• Work on a flat, well-lit surface. Thick yarn and a big hook are easy to see, but good light makes counting stitches much simpler.
• Count your stitches at the end of each round. The stitch count in parentheses tells you exactly how many you should have. Catching a mistake early is far easier than fixing it later.

Step-by-Step Instructions

Notes: Coasters are worked in the round in a continuous spiral unless otherwise stated. Do not turn at the end of each round; the right side faces you throughout. Make 4 coasters, alternating the color sequence so two start with Cream and two start with Denim Blue for a balanced set.

Color Sequence (per coaster)

• Rnd 1: A (Cream)
• Rnd 2: A (Cream)
• Rnd 3: B (Denim Blue)
• Rnd 4: B (Denim Blue)
• Rnd 5: A (Cream)
• Rnd 6 (edge): B (Denim Blue)

Body (make 4)

With Cream (A), make a magic ring.

Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into the magic ring. Pull the tail to close the ring snugly. (6 sc)

Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)

Rnd 3: Change to Denim Blue (B) on the last yarn-over of the final st of Rnd 2. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st; repeat from * around. (18 sc)

Rnd 4: *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts; repeat from * around. (24 sc)

Rnd 5: Change to Cream (A) on the last yarn-over of the final st of Rnd 4. *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sts; repeat from * around. (30 sc)

Contrasting Edge

Rnd 6 (edge): Change to Denim Blue (B) on the last yarn-over of the final st of Rnd 5. Work 1 sc in each st around. Join with a sl st to the first sc of the round. (30 sc)

Fasten off. Weave in all ends on the wrong side using the tapestry needle, being careful not to pull the fabric out of shape.

Assembly and Finishing

These coasters are made in one piece, so there is no seaming to do. The finishing work is all about tidying and shaping.

• Weaving in ends: Thread each yarn tail onto the tapestry needle. Turn the coaster to the wrong side (the back). Slide the needle through the backs of several nearby stitches, going in one direction for about an inch, then reverse direction and go back through a few stitches the other way. This "back-and-forth" path locks the tail so it will not work loose in the wash. Trim the yarn close to the fabric.
• Shaping: Gently flatten each coaster with your fingers, coaxing it into a nice even circle. If a coaster curls at the edge, give it a light steam-block: hold a steam iron an inch or two above the coaster (do not press the iron directly onto the fabric) and let the steam relax the stitches, then lay it flat to dry. Do not press heavily, as this can flatten the spiral texture.
• Final check: Trim any remaining yarn tails and lay all four coasters side by side to confirm they are a matching set.

Pro Tips and Variations

• Reverse the colors for a two-tone set: On two of the four coasters, swap the color sequence so the denim and cream rings alternate positions. The set looks intentional and designer-made.
• Try a different palette: This pattern shines in any two colors. Think sage green and oatmeal, charcoal and mustard, or blush and ivory. Just keep one color light and one darker for contrast.
• Adjust the size: To make a larger coaster or a small trivet, simply continue the increase pattern. Each new round adds 6 stitches: Rnd 7 would be *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of the next 4 sts; repeat from * around (36 sc), and Rnd 8 would be *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of the next 5 sts; repeat from * around (42 sc). Add a plain sc edge round to finish.
• Substitute yarn: Any super bulky (weight 6) yarn works, but a cotton or cotton-blend is best because it is absorbent and washable, which is exactly what you want under a sweating glass. Avoid fuzzy or slippery yarns for your first set.