Emerald Medallion Pincushion Dome Free Crochet Pattern
Emerald Medallion Pincushion Dome: A Free Beginner Crochet Pattern
Introduction
If you have ever wanted to make something that looks like a little treasure from a Victorian sewing room, this is the project for you. The Emerald Medallion Pincushion Dome is a small, sturdy, rounded pincushion worked in rich emerald green, topped with a delicate blush pink scalloped cap and finished with a tiny hanging loop. It is perfect for complete beginners because it uses only the most basic crochet stitches: chain, single crochet, slip stitch, and double crochet. The finished piece is about 5 inches wide and 3.5 inches tall, with a flat bottom that sits nicely on a table and a domed top that holds pins beautifully. It feels firm and smooth in your hand, and the visible single crochet texture gives it a lovely handmade, heirloom quality. Best of all, you will practice increasing and decreasing in the round, which are the two skills that unlock almost every amigurumi and home decor project you will ever want to make.
Materials Needed
- Yarn: Worsted weight (category 4) acrylic or cotton yarn. Approximately 90 yards emerald green and 25 yards blush pink.
- Crochet hook: US H/8 (5.0 mm).
- Stitch marker: One removable stitch marker (or a small safety pin or scrap of contrasting yarn).
- Tapestry needle: A blunt-tipped needle with a large eye for sewing and weaving in ends.
- Scissors: Any small sharp craft scissors.
- Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill (a small handful, about the size of a tennis ball).
- Optional: A small amount of contrasting waste yarn for embroidery or marking.
- Finished size: Approximately 5 inches (12.7 cm) in diameter and 3.5 inches (9 cm) tall, not counting the hanging loop.
Abbreviations and Beginner Glossary
Every abbreviation used in this pattern is listed below with a plain-English explanation. Read through this list once before you begin, and come back to it any time a row instruction confuses you.
- ch – chain. Make a loop of yarn on your hook, then pull the working yarn through that loop. Each one you make is a "chain stitch."
- sc – single crochet. Insert your hook into the next stitch, wrap the yarn over the hook and pull up a loop (you now have 2 loops on the hook), wrap the yarn over again and pull it through both loops. That is one single crochet.
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 stitches together. This is a decrease. Insert your hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop, then insert your hook into the following stitch and pull up another loop (3 loops on hook), wrap the yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. Two stitches become one.
- dc – double crochet. Wrap the yarn over your hook, insert the hook into the next stitch, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), wrap the yarn over and pull through 2 loops, wrap again and pull through the last 2 loops.
- sl st – slip stitch. Insert your hook into the next stitch, wrap the yarn over, and pull it through both the stitch and the loop on your hook in one motion. It makes a nearly invisible joining stitch.
- st(s) – stitch or stitches. One completed loop on your work.
- rnd – round. One complete circle of stitches worked in the round.
- [ ] – square brackets. Everything inside the brackets is repeated the number of times stated after the bracket.
- magic ring – an adjustable loop of yarn that you crochet into, then pull closed so there is no hole in the center.
- fasten off – cut the yarn a few inches from your work, pull the tail all the way through the last loop, and pull tight to secure.
- front loop / back loop – each single crochet stitch has two top loops. The front loop is the one closest to you; the back loop is the one farther away.
Gauge
Gauge: 16 single crochet stitches x 18 rounds = 4 inches (10 cm) worked in the round.
Gauge means how many stitches and rounds fit into a set measurement. It matters because it controls the finished size: if your stitches are bigger than the gauge, your pincushion will come out larger and looser; if they are smaller, it will be tighter and smaller. Gauge is not critical for this project (a slightly different size still works perfectly as a pincushion), but it is worth checking so you know what to expect.
How to make a gauge swatch: With your emerald yarn and H/8 hook, make a magic ring, work 6 sc into it, then increase as in Rnds 2–8 of the body. Work a few plain rounds. Measure across the middle of your swatch with a ruler. If 16 stitches measure about 4 inches, you are on track. If you have more stitches in 4 inches, your tension is tight — try a larger hook. If you have fewer, your tension is loose — try a smaller hook.
Beginner Tips Before You Start
- Use your stitch marker every single round. Because this pattern is worked in a continuous spiral, there is no seam to tell you where a round begins. Place the marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
- Do not pull your yarn too tight. Beginners often tug each stitch snug, which makes the fabric stiff and hard to work into. Keep an even, relaxed tension so your hook slides in easily.
- Count out loud (or in a whisper). The stitch counts in parentheses at the end of each round are your safety net. If your count is off, stop and fix it before moving on — one missed stitch early becomes a lopsided dome later.
- Stuff little by little. Add fiberfill in small pinches rather than one big handful. This prevents lumps and gives you a smooth, firm dome.
- Keep your starting tail long. A long tail on the magic ring makes it much easier to close the center hole tightly and to weave in later.
- Work the cap after the body is stuffed. That way you can hold the cap against the finished dome to check the fit before you sew.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Important note: The body is worked in continuous rounds (a spiral) without joining. Do not turn your work at the end of each round. The cap is made separately and sewn on at the end.
Body (Emerald Green)
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: [Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: [Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (42 sc)
Rnd 8: [Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (48 sc)
Rnd 9: [Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (54 sc)
Rnd 10: [Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (60 sc)
Rnd 11: [Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (66 sc)
Rnd 12: [Sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (72 sc)
Rnd 13: [Sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (78 sc)
Rnd 14: [Sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (84 sc)
Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (84 sc)
Rnds 16–24: Repeat Rnd 15 nine more times. (84 sc)
Rnd 25: [Sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog] around. (78 sc)
Rnd 26: [Sc in next 11 sts, sc2tog] around. (72 sc)
Rnd 27: [Sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog] around. (66 sc)
Rnd 28: [Sc in next 9 sts, sc2tog] around. (60 sc)
Rnd 29: [Sc in next 8 sts, sc2tog] around. (54 sc)
Rnd 30: [Sc in next 7 sts, sc2tog] around. (48 sc)
Rnd 31: [Sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog] around. (42 sc)
Rnd 32: [Sc in next 5 sts, sc2tog] around. (36 sc)
Rnd 33: [Sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog] around. (30 sc)
Rnd 34: [Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog] around. (24 sc)
Rnd 35: [Sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog] around. (18 sc)
Rnd 36: [Sc in next st, sc2tog] around. (12 sc)
Rnd 37: [Sc2tog] around. (6 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Do not close the opening yet.
Stuffing the Body
Turn the body so the flat bottom faces down. Stuff it firmly with polyester fiberfill through the opening at the top, adding small pinches at a time and pushing them into the sides first. Shape it into a rounded dome that is flat on the bottom and domed on top. The body should hold its shape when you squeeze it gently but still feel soft. Do not overstuff, or the fabric will stretch and the stitches will gap.
Closing the Body
Thread the long tail onto your tapestry needle. Weave the needle through the front loop of each of the remaining 6 stitches, going around the circle once. Pull the tail tight to close the opening completely, then push the needle down through the center of the dome and out through the bottom to hide the tail. Trim the yarn close to the fabric. Weave in any other ends.
Cap (Blush Pink)
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, work 6 sc into the ring. Pull the tail to close the ring. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Work 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] around. (18 sc)
Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (24 sc)
Rnd 5: [Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (30 sc)
Rnd 6: [Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (36 sc)
Rnd 7: [Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (42 sc)
Rnd 8: [Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (48 sc)
Rnd 9: [Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (54 sc)
Rnd 10: [Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (60 sc)
Rnd 11: [Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (66 sc)
Rnd 12: [Sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (72 sc)
Rnd 13: [Sc in next 11 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (78 sc)
Rnd 14: [Sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st] around. (84 sc)
Rnd 15: Sc in each st around. (84 sc)
Rnd 16: Sc in each st around. (84 sc)
Rnd 17 (scalloped edging): Ch 1, skip the first st, work 5 dc in the next st, skip the next st, sl st in the next st. Repeat this sequence (5 dc in one st, skip 1 st, sl st in next st) around, ending with a sl st in the last st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. (21 scallops)
Hanging Loop (Emerald Green)
Cut a 6-inch length of emerald yarn. Fold it in half to create a loop and tie a small knot at the base, leaving two short tails to sew with. Alternatively, ch 12 and sl st into the first chain to form a small ring. Set aside.
Assembly and Finishing
Step 1 – Position the cap. Center the blush cap on top of the emerald body with the scalloped edge facing outward and slightly downward, like a little hat brim. The cap should sit flat against the dome. Pin it in place with a few straight pins if that helps you keep it steady.
Step 2 – Sew the cap on. Thread the long tail from the cap onto your tapestry needle. Working around the outer edge of Rnd 16 (the last plain round before the scallops), sew the cap to the body using small, even stitches. Catch only the back loops of the cap and the surface of the body so the stitches do not show on the front. Sew all the way around, then knot securely on the inside and weave in the end.
Step 3 – Attach the hanging loop. Thread the two tails of the hanging loop onto the tapestry needle and push them through the very top center of the cap, down into the stuffed body. Sew back and forth a few times to anchor it firmly, knot, and weave in the ends inside the body.
Step 4 – Weave in all ends. Use the tapestry needle to run every remaining yarn tail back and forth through the inside of the work for about an inch, then trim close to the fabric.
Step 5 – Shape and block. Use your hands to smooth the surface and make sure the cap sits flat and centered. If the scalloped edge curls up, hold it briefly over a kettle of steaming water (keep your hands and the yarn a safe distance away) or press it gently with a warm iron held just above the fabric — never touch the iron directly to acrylic yarn. Let it dry completely before use.
Care: Spot clean with a damp cloth and mild soap. Do not machine wash or dry.
Pro Tips and Variations
- Change the colors. Try a deep burgundy body with a cream cap, or a soft sage body with a dusty rose cap. Any two worsted weight colors that please you will work — just keep the same yardage amounts.
- Make it bigger or smaller. To enlarge the pincushion, add one more increase round (Rnd 15 would become [sc in next 13 sts, 2 sc in next st] around for 90 sc) and add one matching decrease round on the way down. To shrink it, stop the increases one round earlier and adjust the plain rounds to match.
- Substitute the yarn. Cotton yarn gives a firmer, more washable pincushion; acrylic gives a softer, squishier one. If you switch to a different weight, change your hook size to match the gauge so the finished size stays close to 5 inches.
- Add a tiny detail. Embroider a small lazy-daisy flower or a few French knots on the emerald body with your leftover blush yarn for an extra Victorian touch. Use the optional waste yarn to mark your placement before you stitch.